Understanding the 4Cs

CUT:

The Ideal Cut - Ideal cutting dramatizes the rare splendor of a diamond because it produces such dazzling brilliance.

The Ideal Cut Diamond describes a round brilliant diamond that has been cut to exact and mathematically proven proportions. Its symmetry, with 58 exactly placed facets, produces the ultimate in lustre and perfecton in a diamond.

When a diamond is cut to the ideal proportions, all the light entering from any direction is totally reflected through the top and is dispersed into a display of sparkling flashes and rainbow colors.

Premium Cut - A Premium Cut diamond demonstrates subtle variations from the Ideal Cut. Although dimensional differences affect a diamond's reflection of light, a Premium Cut still achieves a harmonious balance between it's proportions and the display of brilliance.

Inferior Cut - Most diamonds are "spread" in their cutting to retain maximum weight from the original rough. A heavier diamond will result, but at a dramatic sacrifice of potential fire and brilliance.

Too Deep: When a diamond is cut too deep, light leaks out of the bottom, brilliance is lost and the center of the diamond will appear to be dark.

Too Shallow: When a diamond is cut too shallow, light leaks out of the bottom, brilliance is lost and the diamond appears watery, glassy and dark.

COLOR:

Most diamonds, although appearing colorless, actually have slight tones of yellow or brown. As these tones become more easily apparent, the rarity and the cost decrease.

COLOR GRADING SCALE
The following scale depicts the differences in color (0-0) of various diamonds:

CLARITY:

Practically all diamonds contain naturally occuring internal characteristics called inclusions. The size, nature, location, and amount of inclusions determine a diamond's clarity grade and affect its cost.

One unique advantage of the Ideal Cut is that its sparkle can mask otherwise noticeable inclusions.

CLARITY TABLE
The following table depicts the gradation in clarity of diamonds:

CARAT WEIGHT:

The weight of a diamond is measured in carats. One carat is divided into 100 parts called "points," 1ct.=1.00 points; 1/2 ct.=0.50 points. The value of two diamonds of the same weight can vary greatly depending on the color, clarity, and cut of each diamond.

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How to Care for Your Diamonds

Diamonds do need care to keep them at their brilliant best. A clean diamond not only reflects light better, but actually looks bigger than one that has been "dulled" by skin oils, soap, cosmetics and cooking grease. Diamonds have an affinity for grease and should be cleaned once every month to keep their fire at its brightest. There are two generally accepted methods for cleaning diamonds.

The Detergent Bath

Prepare a small bowl of warm suds with any mild liquid detergent. Brush pieces gently with a tooth brush while they are in the suds. Transfer to a wire strainer and rinse under warm running water. Pat dry with a soft, lintfree cloth.

The Cold Water Soak

Make a half and half solution of cold water and household ammonia in a cup. Soak the diamond for 30 minutes. Lift out and tap gently around the back and front of the mounting with a small brush. Swish the solution once more, and drain on paper. No rinse is needed.

Things Not to Do with Your Diamond

Do not let your diamond come in contact with chlorine bleach when you're doing housework. It will not hurt the diamond, but it can pit or discolor the mounting.

Do not wear your diamond when you are doing rough work or doing the dishes. Even though a diamond is durable, it can be chipped by a hard blow along its grain.

Do not jumble your diamond pieces in a drawer or jewelry case, because diamonds can scratch each other and also scratch other jewelry.

Take your diamonds to a qualified and reputable jeweler for a "Check-up" at least once a year. The jeweler should check your ring for loose settings and signs of wear. The jeweler will usually give your diamonds a professional polish at the same time.

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About Gold

Gold is generally combined with other metals to increase its strength and make it more durable. Frequently, one will see gold marked as 18-karat. That means it is 18/24ths, or three quarters, pure gold. Most jewelry in the United States is made of 14-karat gold. 14-karats, or 14/24ths, is just over half pure gold. 10-karat gold, or 10/24ths, is the lowest number of karats that can legally be marked and sold as gold in the United States. Pieces marked 10 karat are 41.7% gold.

Pure gold, 24-karat, has a natural, intensely yellow, sunny color. Jewelers can add additional metals to gold to create different colors. Yellow gold contains copper and silver. Pink gold has copper.

The standard gold alloy is a mixture of gold, silver, and copper. Pure gold is too soft for reasonable jewelry use. A pure gold ring would bend and become dented very quickly.

White gold is an alloy of gold and some white metals such as nickel, silver and palladium. White gold can be 18-karat, 14-karat, 10-karat. For example, 18-karat yellow gold is made by mixing 75% gold with 25% other metals such as copper and zinc. 18-karat white gold is made by mixing 75% gold with 25% other metals such as nickel, silver and palladium. The amount of gold means the same but the alloy varies with different types of white gold. When white gold rings are new they are coated with another white metal called Rhodium. This Rhodium is very white and very hard, but it does wear away eventually. To keep a white gold ring looking its best it should be Rhodium plated approximately once a year.

Caring For Gold

Cleaning:

Moisture, perspiration and cosmetics can dull gold, while soap can dampen its luster.

A soft chamois cloth is an inexpensive, yet effective, way to clean gold and keep it shiny. An ultrasonic cleaning machine also works well with metals but should not be used with gemstones. Grease can be removed by dipping jewelry into plain rubbing alcohol. To remove tarnish from gold use soap and water mixed with a few drops of ammonia. An old toothbrush works well. After brushing, rinse with warm water and air dry.

Storing:

When not wearing gold, store jewelry in a soft cloth. Chains should lie flat to avoid kinks. Gold is strong, but can still be scratched. Avoid placing pieces atop each other in a jewelry box or drawer.

Gold's worst enemy is chlorine. Repeated exposure to chlorinated swimming pools and cleaning products can weaken gold and cause it to break. High temperatures can also be troublesome, so remove gold jewelry before slipping into a hot tub.

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About Platinum

Platinum with its strength, durability, and deep luster is unmatched as a setting for diamonds and colored stones. It has served not only to safely and beautifully hold the world's most precious gems, but also remains the jeweler's metal of choice when only the best will do. It is the hardest of the precious metals, it never tarnishes. Its intense luster remains intact over the years, and it is completely hypoallergenic.

Platinum is extremely dense, and heavy very much more so than silver or gold. This property of platinum enhances the quality of the jewelry from which it is created. Platinum jewelry products have a fine, high polish.

Platinum's ultimate stability platinum over the years is unmatched and it hardly wears; its remarkably high level of durability offers a profound guarantee of strength and longevity. All the great grandmother's ring, invariably, are made from platinum.

Platinum is not susceptible to problems like stress corrosion or stress cracking as can be the case with white gold.

Platinum is the "environmental metal" because much of newly minted platinum goes into the environmental protection devices used in the global war on pollution. It is also used in high technology industries and systems. In fact, platinum is stockpiled by the United States Department of Defense. Other sources of platinum demand include the telecommunications, petroleum, medical, pharmaceutical, chemical, and jewelry industries.

Platinum is a white metal, but, unlike gold, it is used in jewelry in almost its pure form (approximately 95% pure). Platinum is extremely long wearing and is very white, and does not need to be Rhodium plated like white gold. Platinum is very dense (heavy); a platinum ring will feel heavier than an 18-karat gold ring. One of the strongest and most enduring of metals, it is also one of the heaviest. A piece of jewelry containing 90 percent pure platinum weighs 60 percent more than a 14-karat gold piece of similar size. Platinum is ideal for jewelry that is worn everyday because it shows little wear. It's also hypoallergenic and resists tarnish.

In the United States platinum jewelry generally contains anywhere from 85 to 95 percent pure platinum. By comparison, 18-karat gold is 75 percent pure gold and 14-karat gold is only 58 percent pure gold.

If a piece of platinum jewelry is marked "Platinum" then it contains at least 95 percent pure platinum. Jewelry with 85 to 95 percent pure platinum is marked "950 Plat." or "950 Pt.," "850 Plat." or "850 Pt.," etc. Both the two- and four-letter abbreviation for platinum is used.

Jewelry containing at least 50 percent pure platinum and at least 95 percent platinum group metals (platinum, palladium, iridium, osmium, rhodium and ruthenium) is marked with the platinum content followed by the content of the other metal. For example: "600 Plat. 350 Irid." or "600 Pt. 350 Ir."

Jewelry containing less than 50 percent pure platinum content cannot be marked with the word "platinum" or any abbreviation thereof.

To produce a single ounce of finished platinum, a total of 10 tons of ore must be mined. In comparison, to produce one ounce of gold only three tons of ore are required. Platinum has very high luster. Platinum's rich, white luster complements diamonds and other precious gems while its neutral color enhances a stone's brilliance and depth.

Platinum is fashionable. Platinum jewelry appeals to many people today because of its subtle beauty and understated elegance. Many platinum jewelry designs are accented with 18-karat gold, creating a sophisticated, versatile and fashionable look.

Platinum used in a ring, bracelet, earrings, pendant, chain, necklace or bridal jewelry, comes with new and sophisticated designs. Some jewelry is made in all platinum for a sophisticated look, but many feature 18-karat gold accents (two-tone).

As platinum's pure white luster, strength and durability are recognized and admired, bridal couples worldwide are rediscovering platinum as the metal of choice for engagement, wedding and anniversary jewelry.

A diamond and its setting should last a lifetime. Because platinum is superior to other metals in strength and durability, it offers a diamond the greatest protection. The breathtaking radiance of a diamond fused with the timeless elegance of platinum creates a rare and enduring symbol of love.

Platinum jewelry should be cleaned the same way you clean other fine jewelry. Use a good prepackaged jewelry cleaner available at your local jeweler or have it professionally cleaned by your local jeweler. As with all precious jewelry, handle with care, not allowing pieces to touch or scratch each other.

Signs of wear, including scratches, will inevitably appear in all precious metals, even in platinum. However, due to platinum's durability and strength there is usually little metal loss when the piece is scratched. If your platinum jewelry does develop visible scratches, you should have the piece repolished by a professional jeweler.

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About Silver

Silver is a white, lustrous metallic element that conducts heat and electricity better than any other metal. With the exception of gold, silver is the most malleable and ductile of all metals. Silver occurs in the pure state to a small extent. Silver is found in areas associated with copper. Pure silver is also found associated with pure gold in the form of an alloy known as electrum.

Most of the silver comes from Mexico, Peru, Canada, the United States and Australia (ranked in order of total production). It is estimated the total world silver production since 4000 BC is about 40 billion ounces - which compares with the world's gold inventory of approximately 4 billion ounces.

Silver is one of the precious metals, although considerably less valuable than gold or platinum. Exposure to oxygen or the air causes a black oxidation to form on the surface (silver-oxide), also known as tarnish. Silver is often alloyed with copper to form sterling silver (92.5 percent silver) for use in jewelry. Silver is also used to make coins and bullion.

Caring For Silver

Like other precious metals, sterling silver oxidizes with time. But if you properly maintain silver jewelry, it will actually improve with age, developing a lush patina. Well-treated silver can last for generations.

Store silver in a cool-dry place. Because silver does tarnish more quickly than gold or platinum, store pieces in a tarnish-preventing bag or wrapped in a soft piece of cloth, such as felt. This also helps prevent pieces from knocking into and scratching each other.

To prevent silver from tarnishing, store it in an airtight container along with activated charcoal–available at pet stores–sewed into a piece of felt.

When cleaning silver, use a mild soap and water solution. Allow the water to bead up, then pat the piece dry with felt or a special silver polishing cloth. Do not use tissue or paper towels as the abrasiveness of their fibers can cause scratches. For pieces with such tarnish or more stubborn dirt, use the gentlest cleaner possible designed especially for silver. For matte or satin silver finishes, use dip solutions. But never use dip cleaners or electrolysis cleaners on antique silver. As with gold, don't expose silver to chlorine, sulfur or strong household cleaning supplies, since the harsh chemicals can erode the quality and sheen of the silver.

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About Pearls

The Value of a Pearl

The first and most important step in assessing the value of a pearl is to determine whether it is the genuine item (either cultured or natural), or paste (a manufactured faux pearl):

Pearls

1. Cold to the touch; quickly adopts to body temperature.
2. Gritty when rubbed across the teeth.
3. Drilled holes are smooth around the edges.
4. Heavy to hold.

Fake Pearls

1. Always the same temperature as their environment.
2. Smooth on teeth.
3. Holes are bumpy, as if pearl melted during drilling.
4. Light in weight.

Elements of Value

A pearl is judged by a variety of factors. AAA-quality pearls are certified to meet the strictest standard of excellence.

Shape

Round pearls are the most treasured and the most difficult to cultivate. Although the implants used are round, the resulting pearls can be baroque (shaped like a teardrop); because the calcium deposits are often layered unevenly by the host oyster. Pearls also appear as button, coin, flat, rice, oval, and cross shaped.

Lustre

Luster is the inner glow of a pearl; it is the shine that beams from within the pearl. The deeper the luster, the more precious and expensive the pearl. Pearls that appear cloudy or milky are of low quality.

Size

Larger sizes, which are more difficult to cultivate, are scarcer and command higher prices. A pearl is measured to the half-millimeter; for example, 6.0 x 6.5mm.

Color

The inner shell of the oyster determines the color of the pearl. Pearls come in a variety of colors (depending on their origin) from yellow, white, silver, pink, cream, gray, black, pink and other colors. Different minerals affect colors and believe it or not pollution can have an effect on the colors.

They can be dyed (which is not stable) and irradiated (grays, silver and rainbow colors- stable) first introduced to treat lower end Tahitian pearls, bleached to remove impurities, nucleus can be dyed and the most unstable the use of silver nitrate to turn pearls black(which makes the nacre softer and less durable).

Surface clarity

Blemishes such as wrinkles or pits on the surface devalue a pearl. Some imperfections are to be expected during the natural formation process, but too many flaws diminish the value of the gem.

Weight

Heavier weight means that a thick nacre (calcium coating) has accrued. As weight increases, so does value. In Japan, all cultured pearls a must be inspected and weighted by government officials. Outside Japan, weight is not considered.

Pearl Varieties

Akoya - The most valuable type of pearl, these gems are grown in the Akoya oysters of Japan. They are known for their radiance and deep luster.

Mobe (Pronounced mah-beh) - A pearl grown on the inside shell of an oyster. Its hemispherical (half-round) shape allows the host oyster to produce a larger pearl.

South Sea - are grown off the coasts of Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. The oysters of these waters are large, allowing for a large pearl (10mm or more) to be grown inside the oyster. South Sea Pearls are one of the most expensive pearl varieties, and can grow from 9mm to 20mm in diameter. They come in white, yellow, yellowish orange and blue colors. The white pearls are silvery but not as lustrous as the Akoya. The oyster can only produce one pearl at a time with growth taking almost 2 years.

Tahitian - are grown off the islands of French Polynesia. They are usually 8mm to 14mm in size. Tahitian Pearls come in black, gray, brown, blue to green, purple and yellowish green. The dark green Tahitian Pearls, called Peacock, are a dark green to blue gray color with overtones of rose to purple. Aubergine Tahitian Pearls are a dark grayish purple color, and Pistachio Tahitian Pearls are a yellowish green to greenish yellow color. Only less than half of Tahitian pearls are round. The oyster can only produce one pearl at a time, with growth taking over 2 years.

Blister Pearls - these pearls are grown attached to the inside surface of the shell of the oyster or freshwater mussel. When they are removed from the shell, one side is left flat and has no pearl like coating.

Biwa - these are freshwater pearls from Lake Biwa in Japan. Biwa pearls have a higher luster and smoother than the Chinese freshwater pearls. Often one will see freshwater pearls advertised as Biwa which is misleading since only pearls from Lake Biwa can be called as such. Unfortunately pollution is affecting the production of this type of pearl.

Keishi - are formed naturally in cultured pearl oysters, they are very tiny in size and sometimes referred to as seed pearls.

Freshwater Pearls - Pearls cultured in freshwater mollusks are generally small and off-shape and have a cloudy luster. These pearls come in a variety of shapes (button, coin, flat, rice, oval) and natural colors (orange, gold, white, purple, blue, and black).

Pearl Facts

• Consist of calcium carbonate, aragonite, water and concholin. The concholin is what binds the layers together.
• Pearls have a hardness of 2.5-4.5. They are very tough. The luster is pearly.
• Are produced by oysters (sea mollusks) and freshwater mussels.
• Pearls form by placing calcium carbonate around an irritant.
• A natural pearl has an irritant that is naturally there such as a parasite or even a piece of sand.
• A cultured pearl has a mother of pearl bead with a piece of mantle tissue or a piece of mantle tissue inserted into the mollusk.

From a historical sense pearls have been around a very long time and have been one of the most treasured of the organic gems.

Pearls were used for taxes in China. Sewn on clothes in Persia (Iran). During the Middle Ages pearls were exclusively a royal gem.

Most pearls on the market today are cultured.

Cultured Pearls

Cultured pearls started in the 13th century with the Chinese implanting Buddha figures in the mollusks producing blister pearls.

The most common method of producing cultured pearls are for baby oysters to be held for about three years until they are mature. A mother of pearl bead is then placed inside the tissue (known as the mantle). The oysters are then placed in buckets or cages and suspended from rafts about 10 to 7 inches in the water. This occurs at various saltwater farm areas.

It can take three to seven years for a cultured pearl to grow to maturity. Because after the mother of pearl bead is implanted the oyster treats it like an irritant and thus nacre (coating around a pearl) is constantly formed around it. It is reported that with perfect techniques it can take as long as two years to grow a pearl. After the pearl is ready, it is removed and then sorted and graded.

Selecting Pearls

When buying pearls one must select them with utmost care and in the presence of an experienced jeweller.

Pearls must be bought which compliments ones skin and hair colour tones. For example creme rose and pinkish colour pearls will suit pale skin complexion and blonde hair. Off white and creme coloured pearls will bring out the best in persons with dark skin and brunette hair.

Other important factors that should be considered while buying pearls are:

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Caring for Pearls

Unlike diamonds, pearls are extremely sensitive gems. Follow this checklist to keep your pearls beautiful:

• Clean regularly by wiping gently with a soft cloth. Pearls can absorb perfume and skin oils as well as dirt.
• Put on your pearls after you have applied makeup and perfume.
• Never soak pearls in water; they may become stained or discolored.
• Restring pearls annually to keep strands at their optimum strength and appearance.
• To clean, use a mild, non-detergent soap and lukewarm water. Let the pearls dry for several days between two soft towels.
• Store pearls separately in their own box or soft silk pouch. Pearls may chip or pit, so keep them away from other jewelry.
• Never close pearls up in an airtight container. Allow them to breathe.
• Protect pearls from temperature extremes and chemicals such as vinegar, alcohol, ammonia, and hair spray, which can erode their surfaces.

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Pearl Fashion Tips

The following are the traditional pearl necklace lengths:

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A Glossary of Timepiece Terms

Altimeter: A function that provides altitude by responding to changes in barometric pressure, commonly found in pilot watches. note that inside a pressurized airplane cabin, the altimeter will register as if on land.

Analog digital: A watch that has both a digital display and hands of a conventional watch. usually featured on sport watch styles.

Analog watch: A watch with a dial, hands, and numbers or markers that present a total display of a 12-hour time span.

Atomic time standard: Provided by the United States National Institute of Standards and Technology, Time and Frequency Division, Boulder, Colorado, atomic power. Mechanical movements are accurate within one minute each day.

Bezel: The surface ring on the watch that surrounds and holds the crystal in place. A rotating ratchet bezel moves in some sport watches as part of the timing device. If rotating bezels are bi-directional, able to move clockwise or counter clockwise, they can assist in calculations for elapsed time.

Bracelet: A type of watch band made of elements that resemble links.

Cambered: Often used in referring to a curved or arched dial or bezel.

Case: The metal housing of a watch's parts. Stainless steel is the most typical metal used but also titanium, gold, silver, and platinum can be used. Less expensive watches are usually made of brass and plated with gold or silver.

Chronograph: A multifunction sport watch with a stopwatch function. Most have two or three subdials, or minidials, for measuring minutes and hours.

Chronometer: A precision watch that is set in various temperatures and positions, thus meeting the accuracy standards set by an official watch institute in Switzerland. Most watch companies either provide this certificate with a purchase or it can be mailed to you.

Complication: A watch with other functions besides timekeeping. For example, a chronograph is a watch complication. Other complications coveted by watch collectors include: minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, or split second chronograph.

Crown: Nodule extending from the case that is used to set the time, date, etc. Most pull out to set the time. In water-resistant styles, the crowns should screw down.

Crystal: The clean cover over the watch face. Three types of crystal are commonly found in watches. ACrylic crystal, a plastic, is inexpensive and shallow scratches can be buffed out. Mineral crystal is comprised of several elements that are heat treated to create unusual hardness that aids in resisting scratches. Sapphire crystal is the most expensive and durable, approximately three times harder than mineral and 20 times harder than acrylic crystals. A non reflective coating on some sport styles prevents glare.

Day/date watch: A watch that indicates not only the date but the day of the week.

Dial: The watch face. The numerals, indices, or surface design are usually applied; others have been printed on.

Digital watch: A mechanical or solid state watch in which the time shows through changes of digits, rather than positions of hands on the dial.

Dual timer: A watch that measures current local time as well as at least one other time zone. The additional time element may come from a twin dial, extra hand, subdials, or other means.

Face: The visible side of the watch where the dial is contained, most are printed with Arabic or Roman numerals. Note: traditionally IIII, rather than IV, is used to indicate the 4 o'clock position.

Flyback hand: A seconds hand on a chronograph that is used to determine lap or finishing times for several competitors. To operate, put both the flyback and the regular second hand in motion, then to record a lap or finishing time, the flyback hand can be stopped. After taking the results, push a button and the flyback hand will catch up to the constantly moving second hand.

Guilloche: A style of intricate engraving that is popular on watch dials, usually very thin lines interwoven to create a surface texture.

Hard metal: A scratch-resistant metal comprised of binding several materials, including titanium and tungsten-carbide, which are then pressed into an extremely hard metal and polished with diamond powder to add brilliance.

High-tech ceramic: Used as a protective shield for spacecraft reentering the earth's atmosphere, high-tech ceramic is polished with diamond dust to create a highly polished finish. Because the ceramic can be injection molded, pieces can be contoured. It has a very smooth surface, usually found in black, but can be produced in a spectrum of colors.

Horology: The science of time measurement, including the art of designing and constructing timepieces.

Index: The hour indicator on an analog watch, used instead of numerals.

Jewels: Synthetic sapphires or rubies that act as bearings for gears of a mechanical watch. A quality hand-wound or automatic mechanical watch contains at least 17 jewels.

Lighted dials: Several types of lighted dials are used so that you can tell time in the dark. Recently, a patented night-lit process, called electro-luminesce, lights the entire dial with uniform light that makes for easy reading in nighttime situations. A side button activates the light. This technology often appears under a brand name such as Timex' Indiglo or Seiko's LumiBrite.

Lugs: Extensions on either side of the bezel where the bracelet or strap is attached.

Mechanical movement: A movement based on a mainspring which is wound by hand; when wound, it slowly unwinds the spring in an even motion. An automatic mechanical requires no winding because of the rotor, which winds the mainspring every time you move your body.

Military or 24-hour time: When time is measured in 24-hour segments, to convert 12-hour time into 24-hour, simply add 12 to any p.m. time. To convert 24- hour time into 12-hour time, subtract 12 from any time from 13 to 24.

Minute repeater: A complication on a watch that can strike the time in hours, quarters, or seconds by means of a push piece.

Moon phase: An indicator that keeps track of the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours, and 44 minutes. Once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon.

Mother-of-pearl: Iridescent, milky interior shell of the freshwater mollusk that is sliced thin and used on watch dials. While most have a milky white luster, mother-of-pearl also comes in other colors such as silvery gray, gray blue, pink, and salmon.

Movement: The inner workings or assembly that make up the main timekeeping mechanism. Movements are either quartz or mechanical.

Perpetual calendar: A complication that indicates leap years as well as the date.

Platinum: One of the rarest of precious metals, platinum also is one of the strongest and heaviest, making it a popular choice for setting gemstone jewelry and watches. It has a rich, white luster, and an understated look. Platinum is hypoallergenic and tarnish resistant. Platinum used in jewelry and watches is at least 85 to 95 percent pure. Many platinum watches are produced in limited editions due to the expense and rarity of the metal.

Quartz crystal movement: A movement which allows a watch to be worn without being wound. This technology employs the vibrations of a tiny crystal to maintain accuracy of time. A digital quartz watch has no mechanical parts but is powered by a battery. The cell battery must be replaced about every 1.5 years. Numbers and letters are on a Liquid Crystal Display (LCD). Most quartz movements are made in Hong Kong, Japan, or Switzerland.

Rose (or pink) gold: A softly hued gold that contains the same metals as yellow gold but with a higher concentration of copper in the alloy. A popular color in Europe, rose gold in watches is often seen in retro styling or in tricolor gold versions. Some 18k red gold watches achieve their color from additional copper in the alloy.

Shock resistance: If shock resistance is specified on a watch case, a watch can withstand normal wear and tear, even during strenuous sport activities.

Skeleton case: A transparent front or back that permits viewing into the inner workings of the watch.

Solar-powered: A type of quartz movement where the batteries are recharged via solar panels on the watch face. They have a power reserve so they can run even in the dark.

Split-second: A feature on a chronograph that actually is two hands, one a flyback, the other a regular hand. To time laps or different finishing times, the wearer can stop the flyback hand independently while the regular hands keep moving -- in effect splitting the hands in two.

Stainless steel: An extremely durable metal ally (chromium is a main ingredient) that is virtually immune to rust, discoloration, and corrosion; it can be highly polished, thus resembling a precious metal. Because of its strength, stainless steel is often used even on casebacks on watches made of other metals.

Sterling silver: A white and highly reflective precious metal. Sterling refers to silver that is 92.5 percent pure, which should be stamped on the metal, sometimes accompanied by the initials of a designer or country of origin as a hallmark. Although less durable than stainless steel and other precious metals, sterling silver if often employed in watches that coordinate or look like sterling jewelry. A protective coating may be added to prevent tarnish.

Subdial: A small dial used for any of several purposes, such as keeping track of elapsed minutes or hours on a chronograph or indicating the date.

Sweep seconds-hand: A seconds-hand mounted in the center of the dial instead of a subdial.

Tachymeter (also tachometer): A watch function that measures the speed at which the wearer traveled by means of a numerical scale on the watch bezel of a chronograph. Frequently used to determine a speed of a car over a measured distance.

Tank watch: A rectangular watch with heavier bars on either side of the dial, inspired by the tank tracks of World War I and first created by Louis Cartier.

Telemeter: A watch function that finds the distance of an object from the wearer by measuring how long it takes sound to travel that distance. Like a tachymeter, a telemeter consists of a stopwatch function and a special scale on the dial of a chronograph.

Titanium: The "space age" metal, often with a silver-gray appearance. Because it is 30 percent stronger and nearly 50 percent lighter than steel it has been increasingly used in watchmaking, especially sport watch styles. Its resistance to salt water corrosion makes it particularly useful in diver's watches. Since it can be scratched fairly easily, some manufacturers use a patented-coating to resist scratching.

Tonneau watch: A watch with a barrel-shaped case with two convex sides.

Tourbillon: A device in some mechanical watches that eliminates timekeeping errors caused by slight variations due to shifts in gravity when a watch changes position during use. The round carriage or "cage" of the tourbillon holds the mechanisms that rotate the wheels, and thus the hands of the watch, in a continuos rate of once per minute.

Waterproof: An illegal and misused term: No watch is fully 100 percent waterproof.

Water resistant: A watch bearing the inscription "water-resistant" on its caseback can handle light moisture, such a rainstorm or sink splashes, but should not be worn swimming or diving. If the watch can be submerged in water, it must state at what depth it maintains water-resistance, i.e. 50 meters (165 feet) or more on most sport watches. Below 200 meters, the watch may be used for skin diving and even scuba diving depending upon the indicated depths. Sonmethimes water-resistance is measured in atmospheres (ATM), which is equal to 10 meters of water pressure. (Some European-made watches use the term "bar" instead). Straps other than metal bracelets may not be water-resistant. new water- resistant versions of nylon, rubber, and other synthetics are a trend in sport watches.

White gold: Created from yellow gold by incorporating either nickel or palladium to the alloy to achieve a white color. Most watches made of white gold will be 18k.

World timers: A watch with a dial that indicates up to 24 time zones around the world, usually found on the outer edge of the face or sometimes on the bezel. Time zones around the world are indicated by major cities.

Yellow gold: The traditionally popular gold used in all gold or gold and stainless steel or other precious metal combinations. Yellow gold watches may be found in 14k or, as found from most European manufacturers, 18k.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Watch Care

1. WATCH MANUFACTURERS ADVISE PEOPLE TO HAVE THEIR MECHANICAL WATCHES SERVICED REGULARLY EVEN IF THEY- RE WORKING FINE. WHY IS THAT?

Like a car, a mechanical watch needs to be lubricated regularly to keep it running smoothly. Over time, the oil will deteriorate and friction between the movement's parts will increase, causing abrasion and making the watch less accurate. In addition, the friction can create a very fine dust that will itself act as an abrasive on the watch movement parts.

2. HOW OFTEN DOES A MECHANICAL WATCH NEED TO BE SERVICED?

Manufacturers' recommendations vary, but most range from every three to five years.

3. WHAT HAPPENS TO IT WHEN IT GOES IN TO BE SERVICED?

The watch is taken apart and the bracelet and case are cleaned ultrasonically and polished. The pieces of the movement are cleaned chemically and examined. Worn parts are replaced. The movement is then reassembled, lubricated and regulated. Then, if the watch is water resistant, its water resistance is tested. (For more on water resistance, see "The American Time Guide to Water Resistance," December 1997/January 1998.)

4. WHERE SHOULD YOU TAKE YOUR WATCH TO HAVE IT REPAIRED OR OVERHAULED?

If the watch is under warranty, the warranty may be invalid unless you take it to a service center authorized by the manufacturer. You can get a list of authorized repair centers from the manufacturer. If the warranty has expired, you can take it either to an authorized center or to a reputable repair shop.

5. HOW MUCH DOES AN OVERHAUL COST?

It varies a great deal, but consumers can generally expect to pay upwards of $100 -- sometimes a great deal upwards–for an overhaul of an uncomplicated automatic watch. As a rule, the more expensive the brand, the more expensive the overhaul.

6. HOW LONG DOES THE WATCH HAVE TO REMAIN IN THE SHOP?

This, too, varies by repair shop, but turnaround times for overhauls are generally measured in weeks–two or three in many instances.

7. DO QUARTZ WATCHES NEED TO BE SERVICED LIKE MECHANICAL ONES?

No. Quartz watch movements do not need nearly as much maintenance as mechanical ones do. That's because they have far fewer moving parts–just the gears that move the hands. (A digital watch has no moving parts al all.) All that most quartz watches really require is that when the case is opened for a battery change, it be cleaned of accumulated dirt. However, some expensive quartz analog watch movements should have their gear trains lubricated every eight to 10 years. For inexpensive quartz watches, this isn't worth doing.

8. HOW OFTEN DOES A WATCH'S WATER RESISTANCE NEED TO BE CHECKED?

All water resistant watches need to have their water resistance checked every time the battery is changed or the case is opened for any other reason. That's because when the case is opened, the gaskets that keep the water out of the case are dislodged. (These gaskets, or O rings, are located inside the case at the joints where the case meets the case back, crown and crystal.) For this reason it's important that when the battery in a water-resistant watch needs to be changed, the watch be taken to a repair center that has water-resistance-testing equipment.

In some instances, water-resistance should be checked between battery changes. If the watch is worn in the water frequently or exposed to a lot of sweat, it should be checked at least every two years and, if exposure to water is very frequent, every year, says Efim Khankin, owner of Universal Watch & Jewelry Co., Birmingham, Mich.

9. DO YOU NEED TO WIND A MECHANICAL WATCH EVERY DAY?

The watch will run better if you do. "You always get better performance from a watch when it's fully wound than when it's wound down," says DAniel Fenwick, technical manager at Swatch Group (formerly SMH) Customer Service in Lancaster, Pa. It's best to wind it even if you don't intend to wear it. That will prevent the movement's lubricants from congealing.

This doesn't, of course, apply to an automatic, or self-winding watch. this type of watch should be wound initially to get it started. If the wearer is reasonably active and wears the watch for 12 to 15 hours a day, it will remain fully wound, Fenwick says.

10. DOES IT MATTER WHICH DIRECTION YOU TURN THE CROWN WHEN YOU'RE SETTING A WATCH?

On most mechanical watches it doesn't. On some, particularly those equipped with calendars, you would only move the hands clockwise. The manufacturer's instructions will include directions for setting.

On quartz watches, it's OK to move the hands in either direction to set them. Manufacturers point out, though, that you can eliminate the free play in the minutes hand by setting it in the following way (a quartz watch, unlike a mechanical one, tends to have play in its minutes hands due to the lack of tension in the gear train): Move the minutes hand clockwise until it is a few minutes past where it is supposed to be, then move it counterclockwise back to the correct spot.

11. WILL HEAT AND COLD AFFECT A WATCH'S ACCURACY?

Heat and cold will affect the time-keeping ability of a quartz watch. Quartz crystals, whose extremely steady vibrations are responsible for the unrivaled accuracy of quartz watches, are cut so they perform optimally at room temperature, says Fenwick. A temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit will throw the timing off by about 1 second a day, as will one of 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

Extreme temperatures will also affect the accuracy of a mechanical watch, but not as much as other factors (see below). One reason is that hot and cold cause the metal parts of a watch movement to expand and contract (though advances in metallurgy have made this less of a problem than in the past). Another reason is that heat and cold affect the viscosity of the oil that lubricates the movement, and thereby affect the movement's accuracy.

12. WHAT OTHER FACTORS AFFECT THE ACCURACY OF A WATCH?

In a mechanical watch, wearing habits such as when the watch is wound, how long it's worn each day and what position it lies in when it is not being worn all play a critical role in determining how consistently a watch runs. Although a typical mechanical watch might gain or lose about 5 minutes a month, it's possible, by adjusting the watch to fit a wearer's regular habits, to achieve much higher accuracy than that. "The more consistent your wearing habits the more consistent the time-telling will be," says Joseph Cerullo, technical director at the Movado Group, Lyndhurst, N.J.

None of these factors makes any difference with a quartz watch. With quartz, temperature is the only variable that affects the accuracy of the movement.

13. CAN A MECHANICAL WATCH BE WORN PLAYING SPORTS?

In general, yes, Cerullo says. All or nearly all mechanical watches manufactured today are equipped with anti-shock devices that protect the watch's balance-staff pivots–the parts of the watch movement most vulnerable to damage from impact. These devices are usually effective enough to protect the watch from the shock it encounters when you hit a tennis or gold ball, for instance.

Nonetheless, there is a small chance that an especially hard knock could damage not only the balance but the rotor axle, which in some automatic movements serves to secure the rotor to the watch movement. So deciding whether to wear your mechanical watch or not while playing sports is a matter of risk assessment. The odds, however, are on your side.

14. IS THE SAME TRUE OF A QUARTZ WATCH?

There is very little chance of damaging the movement of a quartz watch while playing sports–a quartz watch does not contain the delicate balance-staff pivots that make anti-shock devices necessary in mechanical watches. you, of course, damage other parts of the watch–the crystal for instance (see below) -- whether the watch is quartz or mechanical.

15. ILL ANYTHING DAMAGE A SCRATCH-RESISTANT SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL?

Don't be misled by the term "scratch resistant". It doesn't mean "scratch proof". The most scratch-resistant crystals are made of synthetic sapphire, an extremely hard mineral that measures 9 on the Mohs hardness scale (diamond, the hardest natural substance known to man, measures 10). Despite its high rating, sapphire can be abraded by some materials. Brushing against a synthetic stone surface, like those found on some furniture or walls, for example, could cause a scratch.

Also keep in mind that the more scratch-resistant a material, the more brittle it is, so scratch-resistant crystals are more likely to chip or shatter than non- scratch-resistant ones.

16. WILL WEARING A WATCH ON THE INSIDE OF YOUR WRIST AFFECT ITS ACCURACY?

If it's a quartz watch, no. The position of a quartz watch has no bearing on its time-keeping ability.

A mechanical watch is a different story. mechanical watches are regulated at the factory to run optimally on a right-handed person who will wear the watch on the outside of his or her wrist–i.e., crown down, dial up. The watch will not run as accurately in any other position unless it is adjusted to do so. If you want to wear the watch on the inside of your wrist and have it run as well as if it were on the outside, you'll have to have it re-regulated.

17. HOW LONG WILL A QUARTZ-WATCH BATTERY LAST?

A silver oxide battery will last two to three years. Lithium batteries will last 10 years or more. (They aren't interchangeable. Watches are designed to use either silver oxide or lithium batteries.)

18. CAN YOU HURT A WATCH BY PULLING THE CROWN OUT TOO HARD WHEN SETTING IT OR, IN THE CASE OF A MECHANICAL WATCH, WINDING IT TOO MUCH?

It's unlikely you would hurt a watch doing either of these things. You would have to pull extremely hard not he stem to damage it while setting the watch. It is in theory possible to overwind a mainspring so that it breaks, but watch repairers say this rarely happens.

19. IS IT TRUE YOU CAN PRESERVE A QUARTZ WATCH'S BATTERY POWER BY PULLING OUT THE STEM IF YOU WON'T BE WEARING THE WATCH FOR A FEW DAYS?

Pulling out the stem saves 75% to 80% of the watch's energy because the gears and hands aren't turning, says Fenwick of the Swatch Group. However, he points out, the savings is marginal when you consider that a silver oxide battery will lose 5% to 8% of its power a year just sitting unused. Another argument against trying to save battery power this way is that if the gears in the gear train sit stationary for a long time, the lubricants congeal.

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About Sizing Your Watch

Fitting Your Wrist - Removing Links

If you have ordered a watch with a metal bracelet, there is a good chance you will have to have one or more links removed to fit your wrist properly. This can only be done with the wearer present. That is why we ship all watches unsized.

We suggest you take your watch to a reputable local jeweler for sizing. Expect to pay a nominal fee for this service. Do not attempt to size your own watch! You may damage or scratch the watch and bracelet. The liability is yours - deBoulle will not accept a scratched or damaged watch for return.

Hold on to Them

After the links are removed, keep those links! Occasionally, a watch bracelet may break. It is a lot easier (and cheaper!) to have the bracelet repaired with your own links than ordering and shipping new ones.

(PLEASE REMEMBER THAT ONCE YOU HAVE YOUR WATCH SIZED, YOU MAY NOT RETURN IT FOR A REFUND OR EXCHANGE)

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Tips on Buying Gemstones

When choosing semi-precious stones, the four C's also can be utilized (See Understanding the 4Cs)

Color:

(i) Best colors should be rich and vivid without being dark;

(ii) But most importantly , you should like the color; and

(iii) Color preference can be very subjective, you should buy what you like best

Clarity:

(i) Clean transparent gemstones are most valuable; and

(ii) Inclusions can provide identity to origin of stone

Cut:

(i) Refers to general shape outline;

(ii) But more importantly, proper cutting affects how even the distribution of color is;

(iii) Deep cut stones have dark areas; and

(iv) Shallow cut stones "window" allowing color to leak out

Carat Weight:

(i) Gemstones are sold by weight; and

(ii) Larger gemstones are more rare

Gemstones have been sought after and treasured throughout history. They have been found in ruins dating several thousand years. They are valued as gifts symbolizing love.

Generally, the price of any gemstone is determined by: size, cut, quality (color/clarity/treatments), and type. Here are some questions to ask about quality:

(i) Has it been treated? (See treatments listed below)

(ii) Is the stone natural or synthetic?

(iii) Are there any noticeable scratches, chips or inclusions?

(iv) Is the color even throughout the stone?

(v) How good is the color? (Is it vivid?)

(vi) If you are buying the stones for earrings or cufflinks, are the stones well matched?

There are many ways that dealers treat gemstones. The savvy buyer asks lots of questions and hopefully tests the results. Here are some treatments to look for:

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About Rubies

Ruby has been the world's most valued gemstone for thousands of years.

In fact, rubies are today still more valuable and rare than even the top quality colorless diamonds. The record price for a ruby sold at auction, is a 16 carat ruby which sold for US$227,301 per carat at Sotheby's in 1988. A 27.37 carat Burmese ruby ring sold for US$4 million at Sotheby's in Geneva in May 1995, or US$146,145 per carat. A 32 carat ruby sold for US$144,000 per carat at Sotheby's in 1989. In contrast, eight D-color internally flawless diamonds over 50 carats have been sold in the past six years and the largest, a pear-shape of 102 carats, fetched a mere US$125,000 per carat. Top rubies are so rare even the world's top gem dealers must incessantly comb estate sales and auctions to find them. Sizes above five carats are particularly rare.

Ruby is the gem quality of the mineral corundum, one of the most durable minerals which exists, a crystalline form of aluminum oxide. Corundum has a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale and is also extremely tough. In its common form, it is even used as an abrasive.

Choosing a Ruby

The most important factor in the value of a ruby is color. The top qualities are as red as you can imagine: a saturated pure spectral hue without any overtones of brown or blue. The word red is derived from the Latin for ruby, ruber, which is derived from similar words in Persian, Hebrew, and Sanskrit. The intensity of color of a fine ruby is like a glowing coal, probably the most intensely colored substance our ancestors ever saw. It is no wonder they ascribed magical powers to these fires that burned perpetually and never extinguished themselves.

All colors of corundum except red are known as sapphires, which has created controversy about where ruby ends and sapphire begins, particularly in pink shades of corundum. In 1991, the International Colored Gemstone Association ruled that the lighter shades of the reddish hues of corundum should be included in the category of ruby.

After color, the other factors which influence the value of a ruby are clarity, cut, and size. Rubies that are perfectly transparent, with no tiny flaws, are more valuable than those with inclusions which are visible to the eye. Cut can make a big difference in how attractive and lively a ruby appears to the eye. A well-cut stone should reflect back light evenly across the surface without a dark or washed-out area in the center that can result from a stone that is too deep or shallow. The shape should also be symmetrical and there shouldn't be any nicks or scratches in the polish. Rubies and other gemstones are sold per carat, a unit of weight equal to one-fifth of a gram. Larger rubies, because they are more rare, will cost more per carat than smaller stones of the same quality.

Ruby sometimes displays a three-ray, six-point star. These star rubies are cut in a smooth domed cabochon cut to display the effect. The star is best visible when illuminated with a single light source: it moves across the stone as the light moves. This effect, called asterism, is caused by light reflecting off tiny rutile needles, called "silk," which are oriented along the crystal faces.

The value of star rubies and sapphires are influenced by two things: the intensity and attractiveness of the body color and the strength and sharpness of the star. All six legs should be straight and equally prominent. Star rubies rarely have the combination of a fine translucent or transparent color and a sharp prominent star. These gems are valuable and expensive.

Where Rubies are Born

The most famous source of fine rubies is Burma, which is now called Myanmar. The ruby mines of Myanmar are older than history: stone age and bronze age mining tools have been found in the mining area of Mogok. Rubies from the legendary mines in Mogok often have a pure red color, which is often described as "pigeon's-blood" although that term is more fanciful than an actual practical standard in the trade today. Myanmar also produces intense pinkish red rubies which are also vivid and extremely beautiful. Many of the rubies from Burma have a strong fluorescence when exposed to ultraviolet rays like those in sunlight, which layers on extra color. Burma rubies have a reputation of holding their vivid color under all lighting conditions.

Since demand for fine rubies is really only limited by the tiny supply available, new sources are always treated as exciting news in the trade. The most recent news is an exciting new mining area in Burma called Mong Hsu.

The new Mong Hsu ruby deposit is producing commercial quantities of commercial quality Burma ruby and also significant quantities of fine quality Burma ruby, particularly in sizes up to a carat. Burma ruby is now more readily available than Thai ruby, due to the new ruby rush in the area.

The new deposit has also affected the world capital of the ruby business: Thailand. Many of the ruby traders and cutters from Chanthaburi and Bo Rai have moved to Mae Sai in Thailand. In Tachilek in Myanmar, across the border from Mae Sai, a flourishing trade in Mong Hsu ruby has transformed a village into a prosperous town. Most Mong Hsu ruby is cut and marketed in Thailand.

Thailand is the world's most important ruby trading center. Perhaps 80 percent of the world's ruby goes through Thailand at some point in the trading cycle. The largest ruby cutting factories are in the Chanthaburi area of Thailand. Bangkok is generally where the world's buyers come to purchase ruby. In 1992, a new ruby mine was discovered in Vietnam that produces rubies which are very similar to rubies from Burma. In fact, the geology of the new mine may be a continuation of the same formation that produced the Burma deposits. Some of the new Vietnamese rubies have been praised by experts as being virtually indistinguishable from top quality Burmese stones.

Fine rubies are also found in Thailand. Thai rubies tend to be darker red in tone: a real red, tending toward burgundy rather than pink, as Burma rubies do. This makes them very popular in the United States where consumers generally prefer their rubies to be a darker red rather than a darker pink. Some Thai rubies have black reflections, a phenomenon called extinction, which can make their color look darker than it really is. But Thai rubies also can have a rich vivid red that rivals the Burmese in intensity. Sri Lankan rubies can also be very beautiful. Sri Lankan stones are often pinkish in hue and many are pastel in tone. Some, however, resemble the vivid pinkish red hues from Burma.

Rubies from Kenya and Tanzania surprised the world when they were discovered in the sixties because their color rivals the world's best. Unfortunately, most of the ruby production from these countries has many inclusions, tiny flaws which diminish transparency. Rubies from the African mines are rarely transparent enough to facet. However, their fantastic color is displayed to full advantage when cut cabochon style. A few rare clean stones have been seen which are top quality.

Occasionally a few fine top-quality rubies appear on the market from Afghanistan, Pakistan, or the Pamir Mountains of the Commonwealth of Independent States. The terrain in these areas has made exploration for gemstones very difficult but someday they may produce significant quantities for the world market.

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About Emeralds

Because the rich green color of emerald is the color of spring, ancient cultures prized it as the gemstone symbolizing love and rebirth.

Emerald is a beryl, a mineral that is normally colorless. Emerald's rich green color is caused by minute traces of chromium. Chromium is the rare Midas element of gemstones: its presence also gives rubies their fiery redness. Crystals of emerald grew long before human history in metamorphic rocks, which usually restricts the size of emerald crystals, making them even rarer in large sizes. Other beryls, emerald's cousins, like pale blue aquamarine, pink morganite, golden heliodor, and pale green beryl, grow in pegmatites which allow larger crystals to form. There is even a bright red beryl found in Utah in the United States.

Choosing an Emerald

When choosing an emerald, the most important value factor to consider is color. The more vivid the green, the more valuable the emerald. There are also attractive bright stones with a lighter green color that often make a spectacular piece of jewelry. Darker green emeralds may also make up in rich color what they lose in brightness.

Because emeralds are so rare without inclusions, some inclusions are expected and do not detract from the value of the stone as much as with other gemstones. However, one should look to make sure that fissures and inclusions do not go too deep into the stone so that it might be weakened enough to break if it were hit accidentally. The fissures and fractures that are characteristic of emerald are traditionally filled with oil to minimize their impact. One should avoid cleaning an emerald with hot soapy water or steam and never clean an emerald in an ultrasonic cleaner because this oil could be removed or damaged, making the fissures more visible.

Although many people consider Colombia to be the source of the best emeralds, country of origin is never a guarantee of quality. Even the best mine produces mostly low quality gemstones because good qualities are very rare. Fine emeralds also come from Zambia, Brazil, Zimbabwe, Pakistan, Russia and other countries, so don't be afraid to choose the emerald that looks better to you.

Emerald is most often cut in a rectangular step-cut, which is now popularly known as the emerald cut. Smaller sizes are also found in rounds, ovals, pear shapes and marquise cuts. You may have to look a while for an unusual shape in a larger size. Due to their rich color, emeralds are also spectacular when cut in a smooth-domed cabochon cut.

As one might expect from gems that have been known to spend centuries at the bottom of the ocean and then return to sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars at auctions, emeralds are durable gemstones with a hardness of 7.5 to 8. However, emeralds with many inclusions should be treated with some care and be protected from blows.

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About Sapphires

Sapphire, the celestial gemstone, has been treasured for thousands of years. The ancient Persians believed that the earth rested on a giant sapphire and its reflection colored the sky. Sapphire is found in all the colors of the heavens: from midnight blue to the bright blue of noon sky in the Mediterranean, golden sunrise to fiery reddish-orange sunsets, and the delicate violet of twilight. The most famous and valuable sapphires are a rich intense blue, a truly royal hue.

Choosing a Sapphire

Sapphires come from Sri Lanka, Thailand, Australia, and Cambodia. Nigeria, Kenya, Tanzania, China, Vietnam, Madagascar, and the United States also produce some sapphire. The most famous sources for sapphire are Kashmir and Burma, which is now known as Myanmar. The deposits in Montana in the United States produce a range of fancy colors, mostly from alluvial deposits in the rivers, and deep blue sapphires from one of the world's largest deposits at Yogo Gulch. The sapphires from Yogo Gulch are small in size but they have a beautiful blue. Unfortunately they are found in a hard rock that makes mining difficult, limiting production.

The most valuable sapphires have a medium intense, vivid blue color. The best sapphires hold the brightness of their color under all different types of lighting. Any black, gray, or green overtones mixed in with the blue will reduce a stone's value. In general, a more pastel blue would be less preferred than a vivid blue but would be priced higher than an over dark blackish blue color. As with all gemstones, sapphires which are "clean" and have few visible inclusions or tiny flaws are the most valuable. However some very fine sapphires, in particular those from Kashmir, have a velvety mist-like texture which enhances the richness of the blue.

Sapphires are most often cut in a cushion shape - a rounded rectangle - or an oval shape. You can also find smaller sapphires in round brilliant cuts and a wide variety of fancy shapes, including triangles, squares, emerald cuts, marquises, pear shapes, baguette shapes, and cabochon cuts, or smooth domes.

Some sapphires with an unusual kind of tiny needle-like inclusions can be cut in a cabochon shape to display a dancing six-rayed white star. Star sapphires, which are becoming more rare, are very popular for men's rings. Star sapphires are judged by the sharpness of the star, the evenness of the rays or "legs" of the star, and the body color of the sapphire. It is extremely rare to find a star-sapphire with a sharp star and a bright blue body color.

Sapphires have become more available in the past twenty years because some light, cloudy, or over dark sapphire can now be heated at very high temperatures to improve the color or clarity. This process, which dissolves trace elements already present in the sapphire, is completely stable. There is no price difference between heated and non-heated material except for at the very top of the market, where the country of origin will also make a difference in the price. About 90 percent of the sapphire on the market today has been heated to make sure it has reached the best possible color and clarity.

Sapphire is a corundum mineral, perhaps the toughest and most durable gemstone available on the market, a crystalline form of aluminum oxide. With a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, sapphire is harder than any other gem, except diamond, and it has no cleavage plane so it cannot be cut with a single blow like a diamond. In fact, synthetic sapphire is used for scratch- resistant watch crystals, optical scanners, and other instruments because its durability can be trusted.

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About Fancy Sapphires

Sapphire is often considered to be synonymous with the color blue: you can easily picture sapphire seas. However, sapphire is beautiful beyond blue, in every color but red, because red is called ruby.

The other colors of sapphire can be just as beautiful and rare - or even rarer - than the blue but they are usually priced less. Yellow, orange, lavender, and other pastel shades are especially affordable.

Since our ancestors did not realize that ruby and sapphire are actually the same mineral, they left us with a dilemma: where should pink shades be classified? Long ago, people decided to call all gemstones of the mineral corundum as sapphire, except the red color, which was called ruby. But pink is really just light red. The International Colored Gemstone Association has passed a resolution that the light shades of the red hue should be included in the category ruby since it was too difficult to legislate where red ended and pink began. In practice, pink shades are now known either as pink ruby or pink sapphire. Either way, these gems are among the most beautiful of the corundum family.

The most valuable other fancy sapphire is a orange-pink or pinkish-orange called "padparadscha" after the lotus blossom. Padparadscha sapphires are very rare and the exact definition has always been a matter of debate: different dealers and different laboratories around the world disagree on the exact color described by this term. Some dealers even argue that the term should not be limited to the pastel shades of Sri Lankan sapphires but should also include the more fiery shades of reddish-orange from the Umba Valley in Tanzania. Padparadscha sapphires sell at a premium, nearing the price for a fine blue sapphire. Although the exact description is debated, the beauty of these rare gemstones is not, with their delicate blended shades the color of fresh salmon and sunsets.

Other very popular shades of fancy sapphires are yellows, bright oranges, lavender and purples, and a bluish green color.

Generally, the more clear and vivid the color, the more valuable the fancy sapphire. If the color is in the pastel range, the clarity should be good: because in lighter tones inclusions are more noticeable, the trade usually prefers the gemstones to be cleaner with fewer visible inclusions. In a lighter colored gemstone, the cut is also more important: it should reflect light back evenly across the face of the stone, making it lively and brilliant. With darker more intense colors, the cut is not as critical because the color creates its own impact.

No matter what the color, sapphires combine durability and beauty for generations of pleasure.

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Jewelry Care Tips

Try to protect any jewelry from scratches, sharp blows, harsh chemicals, extreme temperatures and sunlight.

• Store jewelry separately so it doesn't scratch other jewelry.
• When doing household tasks such as gardening and cleaning, be certain to remove rings.
• Put your jewelry on after washing and applying any makeup/hair spray.
• Never wear jewelry while swimming in a swimming pool. The chlorine can cause damage to various gemstones and gold. Gemstones may become loose in their settings (and possibly fall out).
• Avoid storing your jewelry next to a heating vent, window sill or on a car dashboard.
• Store jewelry away from sunlight as the sun may fade the gemstones.
• Always store bead necklaces (such as lapis, pearls, etc) flat as silk stretches over time.

Hardness is based on a gem-trade standard called the Mohs scale. The higher the Mohs scale number, the harder the stone is. The highest Mohs scale rating is 10 (diamonds). Anything with a Mohs scale rating of less than 7 is easily scratched (such as coral, lapis lazuli, opal, pearl, and turquoise). Gold, silver, and platinum are only Mohs 2-1/2 to 4. Always carefully store any fine jewelry.

Be certain that stones mounted in rings are not loose or rattle. The prongs of a ring can and do wear down. If the prongs wear down too much or break, you've lost the stone. Prongs are easily "retipped" by most jewelers to keep the stone secure.

Common stones that are damaged in sunlight (there may be more):

• Amethyst: becomes paler
• Ametrine: may change color
• Apatite: pink variety fades
• Aquamarine: becomes paler
• Aventurine: translucent types often lose color
• Beryl: brown or orange types may change to pale pink
• Celestite: fades in direct sunlight
• Chrysoprase: becomes paler
• Citrine: may change color
• Fluorite: green and purple types change color
• Kunzite: becomes pale or loses color
• Rose Quartz: becomes paler
• Smokey Quartz: becomes paler

Sterling silver will polish up by rubbing or buffing it with a soft cotton cloth or a Sunshine Cloth. If you store silver in plastic bags with an interlocking seal, it will be less prone to tarnish. (Do not store pearls in plastic bags)

Jewelry and gemstones tend to loose their ability to reflect light when they get dirty. The easiest way to clean your jewelry is to bring it in and have the professionals at jour local jeweler clean them for you.

If you clean your jewelry yourself, try some warm, soapy water and a toothbrush; make sure to dry.

Take all jewelry off before strenuous work or exercise. Make sure to put your perfume, moisturizers, and hairspray on before you put on your jewelry; these products can damage pearls, in particular.

Clean your pearls with a moist cloth.

Do not wear your jewelry in a hot tub or pool; chlorine eats away at gold.

Do not store your jewelry all together. The harder stones may scratch the softer ones.

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