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The Value of a Pearl
The first and most important step in assessing the value of a pearl is to determine whether it is the genuine item (either cultured or natural), or paste (a manufactured faux pearl):
Pearls
- Cold to the touch; quickly adopts to body temperature.
- Gritty when rubbed across the teeth.
- Drilled holes are smooth around the edges.
- Heavy to hold.
Fake Pearls
- Always the same temperature as their environment.
- Smooth on teeth.
- Holes are bumpy, as if pearl melted during drilling.
- Light in weight.
Elements of Value
A pearl is judged by a variety of factors. AAA-quality pearls are certified to meet the strictest standard of excellence.
Shape
Round pearls are the most treasured and the most difficult to cultivate. Although the implants used are round, the resulting pearls can be baroque (shaped like a teardrop); because the calcium deposits are often layered unevenly by the host oyster. Pearls also appear as button, coin, flat, rice, oval, and cross shaped.
Lustre
Luster is the inner glow of a pearl; it is the shine that beams from within the pearl. The deeper the luster, the more precious and expensive the pearl. Pearls that appear cloudy or milky are of low quality.
Size
Larger sizes, which are more difficult to cultivate, are scarcer and command higher prices. A pearl is measured to the half-millimeter; for example, 6.0 x 6.5mm.
Color
The inner shell of the oyster determines the color of the pearl. Pearls come in a variety of colors (depending on their origin) from yellow, white, silver, pink, cream, gray, black, pink and other colors. Different minerals affect colors and believe it or not pollution can have an effect on the colors.
They can be dyed (which is not stable) and irradiated (grays, silver and rainbow colors- stable) first introduced to treat lower end Tahitian pearls, bleached to remove impurities, nucleus can be dyed and the most unstable the use of silver nitrate to turn pearls black(which makes the nacre softer and less durable).
Surface clarity
Blemishes such as wrinkles or pits on the surface devalue a pearl. Some imperfections are to be expected during the natural formation process, but too many flaws diminish the value of the gem.
Weight
Heavier weight means that a thick nacre (calcium coating) has accrued. As weight increases, so does value. In Japan, all cultured pearls a must be inspected and weighted by government officials. Outside Japan, weight is not considered.
Pearl Varieties
Akoya - The most valuable type of pearl, these gems are grown in the Akoya oysters of Japan. They are known for their radiance and deep luster.
Mobe (Pronounced mah-beh) - A pearl grown on the inside shell of an oyster. Its hemispherical (half-round) shape allows the host oyster to produce a larger pearl.
South Sea - are grown off the coasts of Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. The oysters of these waters are large, allowing for a large pearl (10mm or more) to be grown inside the oyster. South Sea Pearls are one of the most expensive pearl varieties, and can grow from 9mm to 20mm in diameter. They come in white, yellow, yellowish orange and blue colors. The white pearls are silvery but not as lustrous as the Akoya. The oyster can only produce one pearl at a time with growth taking almost 2 years.
Tahitian - are grown off the islands of French Polynesia. They are usually 8mm to 14mm in size. Tahitian Pearls come in black, gray, brown, blue to green, purple and yellowish green. The dark green Tahitian Pearls, called Peacock, are a dark green to blue gray color with overtones of rose to purple. Aubergine Tahitian Pearls are a dark grayish purple color, and Pistachio Tahitian Pearls are a yellowish green to greenish yellow color. Only less than half of Tahitian pearls are round. The oyster can only produce one pearl at a time, with growth taking over 2 years.
Blister Pearls - these pearls are grown attached to the inside surface of the shell of the oyster or freshwater mussel. When they are removed from the shell, one side is left flat and has no pearl like coating.
Biwa - these are freshwater pearls from Lake Biwa in Japan. Biwa pearls have a higher luster and smoother than the Chinese freshwater pearls. Often one will see freshwater pearls advertised as Biwa which is misleading since only pearls from Lake Biwa can be called as such. Unfortunately pollution is affecting the production of this type of pearl.
Keishi - are formed naturally in cultured pearl oysters, they are very tiny in size and sometimes referred to as seed pearls.
Freshwater Pearls - Pearls cultured in freshwater mollusks are generally small and off-shape and have a cloudy luster. These pearls come in a variety of shapes (button, coin, flat, rice, oval) and natural colors (orange, gold, white, purple, blue, and black).
Pearl Facts
- Consist of calcium carbonate, aragonite, water and concholin. The concholin is what binds the layers together.
- Pearls have a hardness of 2.5-4.5. They are very tough. The luster is pearly.
- Are produced by oysters (sea mollusks) and freshwater mussels.
- Pearls form by placing calcium carbonate around an irritant.
- A natural pearl has an irritant that is naturally there such as a parasite or even a piece of sand.
- A cultured pearl has a mother of pearl bead with a piece of mantle tissue or a piece of mantle tissue inserted into the mollusk.
From a historical sense pearls have been around a very long time and have been one of the most treasured of the organic gems.
Pearls were used for taxes in China. Sewn on clothes in Persia (Iran). During the Middle Ages pearls were exclusively a royal gem.
Most pearls on the market today are cultured.
Cultured Pearls
Cultured pearls started in the 13th century with the Chinese implanting Buddha figures in the mollusks producing blister pearls.
The most common method of producing cultured pearls are for baby oysters to be held for about three years until they are mature. A mother of pearl bead is then placed inside the tissue (known as the mantle). The oysters are then placed in buckets or cages and suspended from rafts about 10 to 7 inches in the water. This occurs at various saltwater farm areas.
It can take three to seven years for a cultured pearl to grow to maturity. Because after the mother of pearl bead is implanted the oyster treats it like an irritant and thus nacre (coating around a pearl) is constantly formed around it. It is reported that with perfect techniques it can take as long as two years to grow a pearl. After the pearl is ready, it is removed and then sorted and graded.
Selecting Pearls
When buying pearls one must select them with utmost care and in the presence of an experienced jeweller.
Pearls must be bought which compliments ones skin and hair colour tones. For example creme rose and pinkish colour pearls will suit pale skin complexion and blonde hair. Off white and creme coloured pearls will bring out the best in persons with dark skin and brunette hair.
Other important factors that should be considered while buying pearls are:
| Colour: |
This is purely a matter of personal choice. The most preferred are with pinkish overtones and these command higher prices. One most avoid greenish and brownish overtones. |
| Shape: |
Fine quality pearls are perfect rounds and therefore are much more expensive. Very slight off-round pearls are also preferred. |
| Size: |
Is one of the most important factors that determine the price of pearls. Since large pearls are rare they are more expensive. One can compromise to buy slightly smaller pearls for better quality rather than buying larger pearls with lesser quality. |
| Lustre: |
The shine or glow on the surface of the pearl is known as lustre. Fine quality pearls have a deep and a shiny lustre and this depends upon the thickness of the nacre on the pearl. |
| Blemishes and Flaws: |
Very few pearls are blemish free and one should be accommodating regarding these while buying pearls. Serious flaws like cracks, over growths on the skin and deep holes should be avoided. |
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