Gold

Gold is generally combined with other metals to increase its strength and make it more durable. Frequently, one will see gold marked as 18-karat. That means it is 18/24ths, or three quarters, pure gold. Most jewelry in the United States is made of 14-karat gold. 14-karats, or 14/24ths, is just over half pure gold. 10-karat gold, or 10/24ths, is the lowest number of karats that can legally be marked and sold as gold in the United States. Pieces marked 10 karat are 41.7% gold.

Pure gold, 24-karat, has a natural, intensely yellow, sunny color. Jewelers can add additional metals to gold to create different colors. Yellow gold contains copper and silver. Pink gold has copper.

The standard gold alloy is a mixture of gold, silver, and copper. Pure gold is too soft for reasonable jewelry use. A pure gold ring would bend and become dented very quickly.

White gold is an alloy of gold and some white metals such as nickel, silver and palladium. White gold can be 18-karat, 14-karat, 10-karat. For example, 18-karat yellow gold is made by mixing 75% gold with 25% other metals such as copper and zinc. 18-karat white gold is made by mixing 75% gold with 25% other metals such as nickel, silver and palladium. The amount of gold means the same but the alloy varies with different types of white gold. When white gold rings are new they are coated with another white metal called Rhodium. This Rhodium is very white and very hard, but it does wear away eventually. To keep a white gold ring looking its best it should be Rhodium plated approximately once a year.

Caring For Gold

Cleaning:

Moisture, perspiration and cosmetics can dull gold, while soap can dampen its luster.

A soft chamois cloth is an inexpensive, yet effective, way to clean gold and keep it shiny. An ultrasonic cleaning machine also works well with metals but should not be used with gemstones. Grease can be removed by dipping jewelry into plain rubbing alcohol. To remove tarnish from gold use soap and water mixed with a few drops of ammonia. An old toothbrush works well. After brushing, rinse with warm water and air dry.

Storing:

When not wearing gold, store jewelry in a soft cloth. Chains should lie flat to avoid kinks. Gold is strong, but can still be scratched. Avoid placing pieces atop each other in a jewelry box or drawer.

Gold's worst enemy is chlorine. Repeated exposure to chlorinated swimming pools and cleaning products can weaken gold and cause it to break. High temperatures can also be troublesome, so remove gold jewelry before slipping into a hot tub.

Platinum

Platinum with its strength, durability, and deep luster is unmatched as a setting for diamonds and colored stones. It has served not only to safely and beautifully hold the world's most precious gems, but also remains the jeweler's metal of choice when only the best will do. It is the hardest of the precious metals, it never tarnishes. Its intense luster remains intact over the years, and it is completely hypoallergenic.

Platinum is extremely dense, and heavy very much more so than silver or gold. This property of platinum enhances the quality of the jewelry from which it is created. Platinum jewelry products have a fine, high polish.

Platinum's ultimate stability platinum over the years is unmatched and it hardly wears; its remarkably high level of durability offers a profound guarantee of strength and longevity. All the great grandmother's ring, invariably, are made from platinum.

Platinum is not susceptible to problems like stress corrosion or stress cracking as can be the case with white gold.

Platinum is the "environmental metal" because much of newly minted platinum goes into the environmental protection devices used in the global war on pollution. It is also used in high technology industries and systems. In fact, platinum is stockpiled by the United States Department of Defense. Other sources of platinum demand include the telecommunications, petroleum, medical, pharmaceutical, chemical, and jewelry industries.

Platinum is a white metal, but, unlike gold, it is used in jewelry in almost its pure form (approximately 95% pure). Platinum is extremely long wearing and is very white, and does not need to be Rhodium plated like white gold. Platinum is very dense (heavy); a platinum ring will feel heavier than an 18-karat gold ring. One of the strongest and most enduring of metals, it is also one of the heaviest. A piece of jewelry containing 90 percent pure platinum weighs 60 percent more than a 14-karat gold piece of similar size. Platinum is ideal for jewelry that is worn everyday because it shows little wear. It's also hypoallergenic and resists tarnish.

In the United States platinum jewelry generally contains anywhere from 85 to 95 percent pure platinum. By comparison, 18-karat gold is 75 percent pure gold and 14-karat gold is only 58 percent pure gold.

If a piece of platinum jewelry is marked "Platinum" then it contains at least 95 percent pure platinum. Jewelry with 85 to 95 percent pure platinum is marked "950 Plat." or "950 Pt.," "850 Plat." or "850 Pt.," etc. Both the two- and four-letter abbreviation for platinum is used.

Jewelry containing at least 50 percent pure platinum and at least 95 percent platinum group metals (platinum, palladium, iridium, osmium, rhodium and ruthenium) is marked with the platinum content followed by the content of the other metal. For example: "600 Plat. 350 Irid." or "600 Pt. 350 Ir."

Jewelry containing less than 50 percent pure platinum content cannot be marked with the word "platinum" or any abbreviation thereof.

To produce a single ounce of finished platinum, a total of 10 tons of ore must be mined. In comparison, to produce one ounce of gold only three tons of ore are required. Platinum has very high luster. Platinum's rich, white luster complements diamonds and other precious gems while its neutral color enhances a stone's brilliance and depth.

Platinum is fashionable. Platinum jewelry appeals to many people today because of its subtle beauty and understated elegance. Many platinum jewelry designs are accented with 18-karat gold, creating a sophisticated, versatile and fashionable look.

Platinum used in a ring, bracelet, earrings, pendant, chain, necklace or bridal jewelry, comes with new and sophisticated designs. Some jewelry is made in all platinum for a sophisticated look, but many feature 18-karat gold accents (two-tone).

As platinum's pure white luster, strength and durability are recognized and admired, bridal couples worldwide are rediscovering platinum as the metal of choice for engagement, wedding and anniversary jewelry.

A diamond and its setting should last a lifetime. Because platinum is superior to other metals in strength and durability, it offers a diamond the greatest protection. The breathtaking radiance of a diamond fused with the timeless elegance of platinum creates a rare and enduring symbol of love.

Caring for Platinum

Platinum jewelry should be cleaned the same way you clean other fine jewelry. Use a good prepackaged jewelry cleaner available at your local jeweler or have it professionally cleaned by your local jeweler. As with all precious jewelry, handle with care, not allowing pieces to touch or scratch each other.

Signs of wear, including scratches, will inevitably appear in all precious metals, even in platinum. However, due to platinum's durability and strength there is usually little metal loss when the piece is scratched. If your platinum jewelry does develop visible scratches, you should have the piece repolished by a professional jeweler.

Silver

Silver is a white, lustrous metallic element that conducts heat and electricity better than any other metal. With the exception of gold, silver is the most malleable and ductile of all metals. Silver occurs in the pure state to a small extent. Silver is found in areas associated with copper. Pure silver is also found associated with pure gold in the form of an alloy known as electrum.

Most of the silver comes from Mexico, Peru, Canada, the United States and Australia (ranked in order of total production). It is estimated the total world silver production since 4000 BC is about 40 billion ounces - which compares with the world's gold inventory of approximately 4 billion ounces.

Silver is one of the precious metals, although considerably less valuable than gold or platinum. Exposure to oxygen or the air causes a black oxidation to form on the surface (silver-oxide), also known as tarnish. Silver is often alloyed with copper to form sterling silver (92.5 percent silver) for use in jewelry. Silver is also used to make coins and bullion.

Caring For Silver

Like other precious metals, sterling silver oxidizes with time. But if you properly maintain silver jewelry, it will actually improve with age, developing a lush patina. Well-treated silver can last for generations.

Store silver in a cool-dry place. Because silver does tarnish more quickly than gold or platinum, store pieces in a tarnish-preventing bag or wrapped in a soft piece of cloth, such as felt. This also helps prevent pieces from knocking into and scratching each other.

To prevent silver from tarnishing, store it in an airtight container along with activated charcoal–available at pet stores–sewed into a piece of felt.

When cleaning silver, use a mild soap and water solution. Allow the water to bead up, then pat the piece dry with felt or a special silver polishing cloth. Do not use tissue or paper towels as the abrasiveness of their fibers can cause scratches. For pieces with such tarnish or more stubborn dirt, use the gentlest cleaner possible designed especially for silver. For matte or satin silver finishes, use dip solutions. But never use dip cleaners or electrolysis cleaners on antique silver. As with gold, don't expose silver to chlorine, sulfur or strong household cleaning supplies, since the harsh chemicals can erode the quality and sheen of the silver.