Hodinkee recently sat down with John Mayer to talk all about watches—how he got into watches, what his first great pieces were, and what he has been wearing on his latest tour. If you did not know already, John Mayer is a serious watch lover with Patek and Rolex dominating his internal narrative these days. Here are some of his favorites:

PATEK PHILIPPE 5164A


This is the Aquanaut Travel Time.  With an international tour this fall, (he is, at present, somewhere between Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and Atlanta, Georgia), this one only makes sense for John Mayer.  The Aquanaut comes on a rubber strap, which might be considered a major faux pas for many Patek lovers. However, the strap works perfectly for John because it reduces the wear-and-tear of a rigorous performance and tour schedule. His is also Tiffany-signed.

ROLEX GMT-MASTER 116710 BLNR


John also brings the brand new Rolex GMT-Master II Reference 116710BLNR on tour with him. Again, a simple modern watch with travel time functionality that he can easily wear on stage. He refers to this watch as the best contemporary movement Rolex makes.

ROLEX SUBMARINER REFERENCE 1680 ISSUED TO COMEX


COMEX-issued dive watches are not that uncommon. Obviously, they are rarer than your normal commercial Rolex diver, but there is an established market for the COMEX-issued 5513s, 5514s, and more modern references.  The 1680 is considered one of the most seldom seen reference COMEX watches. The story goes that the 1680s were given to officers and administrators at COMEX, while the no-date guys were given to the divers. John describes this watch as a watch that nobody would ever look at twice, unless they knew exactly what it was.

ROLEX MILITARY SUBMARINER REFERENCE 5517


This is a reference 5517 “MilSub”. As John states, while it may cost a few pennies today, this is one watch you can treat as casually as you like. According to John, nothing you can do to it will be worse than what it has already lived through.

ROLEX COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA 6263


John Mayer considers the Daytona 6263 to be one of the absolute best watches ever made. This is a no-nonsense chronograph with a basic Valjoux-based movement, screw-down pushers, and black acrylic bezel. It can be described as the only Daytona you’ll ever need.

PATEK PHILIPPE 5970G


Finally, there is the 6263 of the world of Patek Philippe. The 5970 is considered one of the best watches ever made from top to bottom. The watch pre-dates the in-house 5270 and uses a Lemania-based movement. According to many collectors, this watch is one of the finest watches a man can buy. John has this watch in white gold, and while the platinum version might be more desirable for others, he believes the “G” to be one of the safest investments in watches.

 

 

 

The official website of The British Monarchy has posted an open position for Horological Conservator and is now accepting applications until October 13th. While some sources may belittle the position by labeling it the royal “clock winder,” the job appears to be much more complicated than that. Details of the listing are below.

 

There are over 1000 clocks and instruments (barometers, thermometers, etc.) that must be maintained, set, and repaired at Buckingham Palace and other Royal residences. The Horological Conservator must have a combination of historical knowledge and mechanical skill with the ability to fabricate parts for centuries-old clocks that require repairs.

 

The position pays 31,200 GBP, which is $50,163 at the time of publishing. Apparently, this same position was posted on the website around this time last year, so whoever took the position previously did not stay very long. You can find the official listing here.

 

 

 

The bi-annual Only Watch auction took place in Monaco this past week. One of the auction’s major highlights was the unique, and completely titanium Patek Phillipe 5004, and it did not disappoint.  The watch exceeded expectations and sold for an impressive 2,950,000 Euros, or $3,985,067.  This is an astonishing $2,000,000 more than the 3939A minute repeater that sold the last time around.

 

While not all results were as successful in the auction (some were below the pre-set “wish prices” as per the manufacturers), the $4,000,000 brought in for the Patek Phillipe 5004 made for a great overall sale.  In total, the sale raised over 5 million euros for charity. You can see the entire list of Only Watch results right here.

 

 

 

 

A 59.6 carat, rare pink diamond known as the Pink Star will be auctioned. The diamond is expected to sell for more than 60 million dollars, the highest price in history for any diamond ever purchased. The bidding will take place on November 13, in Geneva, Switzerland.

 

The Pink Star is described as “the largest internally flawless fancy vivid pink diamond that the Gemological Institute of America has ever graded.” The gem is known to be very rare and very large at 59.6 carats. It took two years to cut its dozens of facets out of the original raw stone and polish it into its current oval shape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This month, the famous 55 ct. Kimberley Diamond will go on display at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City. This is the stone’s first public appearance.

 

According to a museum spokeswoman, the stone will be on display in the Morgan Memorial Hall of Gems through at least June 2014 and is on loan from the Bruce F. Stuart Trust.

 

Described by the exhibit’s curator as “virtually flawless,” the stone is a 55.08-ct. champagne-colored gem. The diamond bears historical importance because it was discovered in the 19th century at the Kimberley Mine in South Africa (also known as “the Big Hole”), one of the first diamond mines of the modern era.

 

Originally discovered as a 490 ct. crystal, the Kimberley diamond was cut into a 70 ct. gem in 1921.  According to the museum, the stone was given its present emerald cut in 1958 to improve its brilliancy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In an upcoming auction, three very rare magnificent colored jewels will be highlighted: an 8.77 ct. fancy intense pink diamond, a 3.81 ct. fancy vivid blue, and a 5.13 ct. fancy vivid yellow.

There is a 5 carat square-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond is expected to sell for more $200,000 to $300,000. The 8.77 ct. rectangular cut fancy intense pink ring has an estimated price tag of $5.5 million to $6.5 million. The 3.81 ct. cushion-cut fancy vivid blue diamond ring is also expected to sale for $2.5 million to $3 million.

Other notable diamonds in the auction include:

– A 25.3 ct. D-color diamond ring, with a $2.4 million to $3 million estimate.

– An 18.8 ct. D-color diamond ring with a $1.7 million to $2 million estimate.

– A 9.52 ct. D-color diamond ring, with internally flawless clarity, with an $850,000 to $1.05 million estimate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Recently, an extremely rare 5.30-carat, fancy deep-blue diamond was sold in London for $9.5 million (GPB 6.2 million) or $1.8 million per carat . According to the auction house, bids from all over the world came through just 25 telephone lines as well as those from a packed sales room.

 

The ring went to bid with a high presale estimate of $2.3 million. Made by Bulgari in 1965, the ring is a cushion-shaped blue diamond, set horizontally with a mount pave-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and course of baguette-cut diamonds in a Trombino ring.

 

The seller stated, “We are delighted with the price it has made. It was a sensational stone which charmed everyone who viewed it prior to the sale. Blue diamonds, especially those over 5.00 carats, are extremely rare to see on the market and continue to be highly sought-after. We are honored to have handled the sale of such a unique gem.”

 


Oftentimes life is complicated… And oftentimes, those complications are not wanted! In the world of fine haute horlogerie, the opposite is true. Patek Philippe has released the most complicated watch they have ever produced. The 174 year old watch brand is truly the master of fine watch complications.

The $1.3 million watch is the Patek Philippe Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon. The timepiece has 12 complications making it a “Grand Complication.” The watch has a tourbillon, minute repeater, sky chart, and a perpetual calendar. The sky chart on the back of the timepiece shows its wearer the evening sky in whatever region of the world they reside. The moon-phase then shows whether the moon is a crescent or full moon.

This watch took 7 years of development to make with the engraving taking more than 100 hours. The minute repeater chimes a note that is tuned to sound like cathedral bills. The price for this watch comes to $1.3 million, but that does not necessarily mean there is one available…

One must apply for ownership of the Patek Philippe Ref. 6002 as it is a Patek Philippe “application piece.” The fine watchmaking brand does what it can in order to ensure that those who end up owning a Patek Philippe 6002 are owners who will truly appreciate the fine timepiece. They must ensure that Ref. 6002 owners have a proven track record with Patek Philippe and that they will truly appreciate this stunning example of haute horlogerie. Patek Philippe has made it very clear of their intentions, “Even if you offered $6 million for the watch, we wouldn’t sell it to you unless you’re approved,” said Larry Pettinelli, president of Patek North America.

No one is sure how many Patek Philippe Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillons will be made, but Larry Pettinelli has said “it will be very few.”

Founded more than 170 years ago, Patek Philippe’s watchmakers have continued to demonstrate their expertise and attention to detail. They have expanded their impressive list of complications and delivered what is undoubtedly the finest of timepieces in the World.

A perfect example of this history & expertise is Calibre 89 that was unveiled in 1989. The 33 complication piece holds the record as the most complicated portable mechanical timepiece ever created. The Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, or Patek Philippe 5002, is the brand’s most complicated timepiece. It has 12 complications on 2 dials and now with the Patek Philippe 6002, that design has been fully refined. The Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, or Patek Philippe Ref. 6002, redefines the Grande Complication. We hope you enjoy this video of the stunning piece.

In today’s world every thing around us is run by electronics… Ironically, the one item that for many of us is not run this way can be easily effected by the other’s presence. The watch on your wrist is on you all day and the steel components of the mechanism can be very sensitive to a magnetic field. The way they function and their accuracy can be greatly disturbed or altered by the electricity and magnetic fields household and other items produce.

Here are some items many of us are surrounded by daily that can have an impact on the performance of our watches.

–  mobile phones
–  laptop computers
–  microwaves
–  hair dryers
–  television sets
–  refrigerators
–  handbag, wallets, purses, and other items with magnetic closures
–  speakers
–  and more!

The Rolex Milgauss (shown below) was originally designed for doctors who are surrounded by more magnetic fields than most of us during their daily lives at a hospital. The Rolex Milgauss was built to better stand up to these magnetic fields & resist being magnetized.

This item list goes on & on… The magnetic fields have 3 main effects on a watch depending on how intense they are…
1) They run slightly fast when the magnetic field is very low intensity.
2) If the magnetic field is of medium intensity, the watch’s mechanism will become magnetized and this will, in turn, affect how its components interact with each other. This will remain until the watch is demagnetized.
3) If a watch is in the presence of a magnetic field too large, it will completely stop.

Whatever intensity of magnetism the timepiece is exposed to, the regulation and amplitude of the movement will return to normal after demagnetizing it. This intervention has no consequence on the timepiece but it must be completed by an Authorized Service Center. deBoulle Diamond & Jewelry is an authorized service center for many fine brands such as Patek Philippe, Tudor, Rolex, Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and more…